When a sump pump failure is an emergency
A dead pump on a dry week is a repair for tomorrow. A dead pump while rain is falling is an emergency, because a pit can fill in minutes and the water then spreads across the slab.
If the pit is close to full, unplug the pump before you touch it and keep your hands out of the water. Carry anything valuable upstairs, shut off power to a flooded area at the breaker only if the panel is dry and you can reach it safely, and then call. We schedule after-hours visits and offer same-day appointments when available.
- Water rising in the pit while the pump hums but does not move it.
- A pump that never turns on even when the pit is full.
- A pump that runs nonstop and cannot keep up.
- A burning smell or tripped breaker when the pump starts.
Why sump pumps fail
Most failures trace back to a short list. The float switch jams against the pit wall, the check valve sticks, the motor burns out from running too long, or the power goes out in the same storm that fills the pit.
A pump that is past its prime often fails without warning. If yours is loud, short-cycles every few seconds or is rusted at the base, replacement usually makes more sense than another repair.
| What you notice | Likely cause | Usual fix |
|---|---|---|
| Pump hums but moves no water | Clogged intake or stuck impeller | Clean the pump or replace it |
| Pump will not start, pit is full | Stuck float or dead motor | New float switch or new pump |
| Pump cycles on and off rapidly | Float set too low or failed check valve | Reposition the float or replace the valve |
| Pump works but only on utility power | No battery backup | Add a battery backup unit |
Pit rising and the pump will not move it? A plumber is on the 24/7 line now.
Call (855) 575-2890Float switches and battery backups
The float switch is the part that tells the pump when to run, and it is the cheapest piece to fail. A tethered float can tangle, and a vertical float can bind against the pit. We test the switch first, because replacing it is often all a pump needs.
A battery backup is a second pump on its own battery that takes over when the main pump fails or the power drops. It does not run forever. A fully charged battery pumps for hours in light flow and far less in a heavy storm, so size the battery to your pit and plan to replace it every few seasons.
- Test the main pump each spring by pouring a bucket of water into the pit.
- Check that the discharge pipe has a working check valve.
- Keep the battery terminals clean and test the backup on a set date.
Installing a sump pump and the outdoor discharge
A new installation starts with the pit. We set a basin in the slab, connect it to the drain tile if there is one, and run a discharge line out of the house. If you want the discharge handled outside, the line exits through the rim joist and ends at a spot where water drains away from the foundation.
Frost matters for that outdoor run. The City of Hazelwood publishes a frost depth of 30 inches, so a discharge line that ends right at the wall can freeze solid in winter and push water back into the pit. A pipe that slopes downhill, with an end that is open to the air, drains between cycles and stays clear.
Dial 811 before anyone digs a trench for a buried discharge line. Do not tie a sump discharge into a sanitary sewer line, and ask MSD at 314-768-6260 before connecting it to anything below ground.
Storm drain cleaning
A pump can only move water as fast as the outlet takes it. If your discharge line runs to a yard drain, a downspout tile or a storm inlet that is packed with leaves, silt or roots, the water backs up the pipe and the pump short-cycles.
We can clear a storm drain line on your property with a cable or a water jet and confirm that water leaves the end of the pipe. We do not work on public storm inlets in the street, which belong to the city or MSD.
What sump pump work costs in Hazelwood
Sump pump prices depend on whether you need a repair, a swap or a new pit. National cost guides put a full installation at roughly $600 to $2,500, a replacement at $400 to $700 and a repair at $200 to $870.
Those are national ranges, not a quote. We give a clear price before work starts, after seeing the pit and the discharge route.
Insurance rarely covers a pump that wore out. Ask your insurer whether water damage from a failed pump or a backup is covered under your policy.
Rain, frost and sump pumps in Hazelwood
Hazelwood sits near creeks that drain to the Missouri River, and a stretch of heavy rain can raise the water table around a basement. If a creek or low yard is near your house, a pump that was fine in dry months can be overwhelmed in a wet one, so a backup is worth considering.
The city's published winter design temperature is 2 degrees F, which is why an outdoor discharge needs a downhill slope and an open end. Plumbing permits in Hazelwood run through St. Louis County, and a new pit or discharge change may need one. If the pit keeps filling no matter what, see basement waterproofing for ways to keep water out of the slab.
Submersible and pedestal sump pumps are listed to the UL 778 standard for motor-operated water pumps. Check for that listing on the box, and follow the manufacturer's instructions for the check valve and discharge pipe size.
What we do not do
We install, repair and replace pumps and run the discharge. We do not dig up and regrade a yard, and we do not repair foundation cracks. If water is entering through a crack in the wall, a structural specialist should look at it.
For a basement that also has a leaking water line, see leak detection. If you are in Florissant, our Florissant page covers calls from that side of the county.
Frequently asked questions
Yes. The 24/7 line is staffed any hour. Call, tell us how high the water is in the pit, and unplug the pump before you touch it. We offer same-day appointments when available.
National cost guides show roughly $600 to $2,500 for a new installation, $400 to $700 for a replacement and $200 to $870 for a repair. Those are national ranges, and we give a clear price before work starts.
If the pit has ever come close to overflowing, or your basement has finished space, yes. Storms that fill the pit often cut the power at the same time, and the backup keeps pumping until the battery runs down.
Yes, and that is the normal approach. The line should slope away from the house, end where water will not run back to the foundation, and stay open to the air so it drains and cannot freeze solid.
No. Clean groundwater should not go into a sanitary sewer line. Ask MSD at 314-768-6260 before connecting a discharge to anything underground.
A stuck float, a failed check valve that lets water drain back into the pit, or a high water table can all do it. We check the float and valve first, and we point you to a waterproofing review if the water table is the cause.
Questions about your situation? A licensed plumber is on the line any hour.
Call (855) 575-2890